Introduction to Drastic Customizing

Turning Traditional models into the horse of your dreams

By Vincent Lange

“Drastic” refers to custom model horses that are heavily resculpted to the point that they are drastically different from the original model that they started out as.

My Breyer drastic customs always start out by finding the perfect reference picture. I often stumble upon a photo that inspires me to create a drastic custom. I then seek out multiple different images as reference material. Ideally, I’ll have a picture of each side of the horse and a frontal view of the position I’ll be resculpting the model into. 

After that, I look at a list of the different Breyer molds to find the perfect fit for the breed/position I have in mind. I try to make smart decisions when choosing a Breyer mold – i.e. the sculpture I use as a base already has a similar movement, or at least part of the body and/or legs are in the intended position already. However, some sculptors enjoy the challenge of changing a standing horse into a running horse, or the other way around. For your first drastic customs, though, a matching position will help you achieve your final vision without causing too much frustration. 

If I like the face of a specific Breyer mold but the rest of the body does not suit my main reference well, I sometimes choose a different body that fits better with my vision and swap the head that I like for the drastic custom. We love a good Breyer head swap – it’s a simple way to give your piece a whole new look!

In my example model, I wanted to create a sliding stop Quarter Horse inspired by an image I stumbled upon online. The Breyer Smarty Jones mold was the perfect fit for me, as the back legs are both moving forward already and his front legs worked well for the pose too – but his head did not match the Quarter Horse breed that I was looking for. This is why I swapped the head for one from a Breyer Dundee model. 

Before I start making any cuts on my model, I print out the main reference picture in the right size so it matches up exactly with the size of my Breyer model. This usually takes a few print tries until I get the correct size. Once I have it, I can use that image as a template to trace my intended pose. 

Model with main reference image

Aligning the model with the reference image

Next, I mark the places I intend to cut with a pen. I try to make as few cuts as possible, because every loose piece means there is a chance it will be reattached incorrectly – that is why I never cut off the model’s head unless I am doing a head swap. I always imagine the skeleton of the actual horse underneath. With that in mind, I cut off the neck from the top and the bottom and leave a “bridge” of plastic in between the head and shoulders that is in the same position of the cervical vertebrae of a horse. Now when I move the head with a heat gun, I won’t have the risk of making the neck too long or too short and keep the original proportions of the model.

Marking the cuts and the cervical vertebrae reference

Cuts made with dremel tool

Clean excess plastic from your cuts for smoother resculpting

I use a dremel rotary tool with a specific circular tool bit to make my cuts. Some people use a hand saw or a mechanical saw – I prefer the dremel as I can’t hold the model stable while using a saw, as the sawing movement will also move the model. The rotary tool, on the other hand, spins in circular motions and not back and worth, which means I have better control of the model itself while making the cuts. 

Just like when cutting vegetables, I keep my fingers away from the area I’m cutting and also make sure my hand is not on the other side of the model. Cutting with a rotary tool is quick and efficient, but always wear a mask and protective glasses to protect yourself from dust and particles.

I try to move the body parts of the model the way a real horse would do – for example, instead of cutting off the leg and re-attaching it to the body in the new position, I make enough cuts to allow the whole shoulder or back leg area to move just as a real horse’s joints would. I will always keep them attached on the topline, using it as the “spine” of a real horse. Once again, imagine the skeleton of the horse in your Breyer model and move the joint to your new position like a puppet. 

Don’t cut off the leg and reattach it without moving the whole back area

Cut around the back area, then move the whole limb forward

Once I’ve made all cuts and created enough gaps in the model, I use a heat gun to bend the body parts into the right position. Gently point the gun to the area and spin it in consistent, circular movements – that way the area won’t get too hot and start melting. If the plastic starts bubbling, you are too close to the model and it is getting too hot.

The plastic will be hot once it’s soft enough to be bent, so builders’ gloves or other protective gloves are recommended. If the plastic cools off and hardens again, you can go back with the heat gun and reheat the area. Hold the bent area in the intended position for a few seconds to let it cool down before letting go of it. Go back to your reference image to check back if all body parts are in the right position. Closing one eye while comparing the two will help with the perspective and make it easier for your model to match up with the image.

Use a heat gun to soften and move the plastic

Keep comparing the model to your reference image

One all pieces are bent into place, I use building foam spray to fill any remaining hollow areas. Once the foam is completely dried – check your packaging for instructions – I cut off the excess with a knife. The building foam is not only lightweight and fills the gaps in between cuts, but it is also helpful if you need to reattach anything with a wire – the foam gives helps with stability when gluing it into the model.

To reattach any body parts, I’ll drill holes in solid plastic parts, like the legs, and stick a strong wire inside. Always use a thick and strong wire, as thin wires won’t hold over time. I use a stiff 0.5”/15mm wire. Use a very strong super glue to glue the pieces together – and remember to always use gloves on both hands while using it. Glue the wire into one body part first, let that dry, and then glue the other side of the wire into the other hole in the body. Baking soda can be used with super glue to make it dry quicker and also hold better. Use protective equipment as the fumes may be strong. 

Filling gaps with foam

Model with foam cut down and body parts reattached

Use a strong 0.5”/15 mm wire to reattach pieces

Once the foam and glue has dried, you are ready to start sculpting! I always use Magic Sculpt two-part air-dry clay for sculpting. Use water to smooth areas and blend it into the model’s plastic. I use rubber, metal, and ball joint sculpting tools, but my favorite tools are actually brushes. They do get ruined quickly, so make sure to use old or cheap brushes. After mixing the parts 50/50, you have about 2 hours to work with the clay before it hardens. After 24 hours it is fully dry and you can sand areas down if needed.

Sculpting tools

Magic Sculpt two-part epoxy clay

Resculpted model with a coat of primer, ready for painting

The key to sculpting an anatomically correct horse is reference pictures – you can never have too many! While I tend to focus on two printed reference pictures of each side of the post, I also have a folder on my computer of other reference images of details and other angles. I usually have about 15-20 total reference images for each drastic custom I make. 

After I’ve finished sculpting and sanding my model, I prime it with a white spray primer. It is then painted in acrylics using an airbrush. Once it’s completely painted and sprayed with a matte sealant, I use mohair to hair my models. This is just a personal preference – you can of course you can sculpt the mane and tail of your model too!

I hope this little introduction was helpful. Don’t be afraid to start or fail! Practice makes perfect. Happy drastic customizing!